华盛顿邮报——利比亚纷飞战火下的中餐馆（文中尚有一处 ...

邮报链接：http://www.washingtonpost.com/wo ... _story.html?hpid=z4

TRIPOLI, Libya — Even with bombs raining down on Tripoli and gunfire crackling throughout the night, every time the phone rings at the al-Maida Chinese restaurant, the Dai family springs into action.
利比亚黎波里——每当al-Maida中餐馆的电话铃响起，戴家便动如脱兔，哪管外面枪林弹雨。

The thousands-strong Chinese labor force that helped make the family one of the most successful restaurateurs in this battered capital left the country soon after an uprising plunged Libya into chaos in February.
自二月份利比亚陷入战乱以来，曾经为黎波里这家最火饭馆捧场的数千名中国劳工相继离开。

Gone, too, are most of the foreign diplomats who kept the eatery on speed dial.
同时撤离的还有众多将饭馆号码存在手机里的各国外交官。

But having invested hundreds of thousands of dollars in a new seaside location for the restaurant a month before the crisis began, the Dais are not yet willing to become casualties of Libya’s civil war.
但对于在战前一个月刚刚投资几十万美元在海边开设新店的戴家来讲，他们还不想成为战争的牺牲品。

“It would be such a loss of our money and a big waste,” Dai Sonxian, the family matriarch and restaurant manager, said on a recent evening, standing by the register near a framed photo of a smiling Moammar Gaddafi.
戴家掌门戴母最近说道：（如何我们也逃避兵祸的话）就太糟蹋钱了。她值守在收银台前，墙上还挂有卡大佐微笑的照片。

So her 21-year-old son Alex, the delivery guy, often darts out at night to hail a cab in this checkpoint-choked city, carrying containers of steaming fried rice, cashew chicken and spring rolls.
戴母21岁的儿子、送外卖的Alex，经常得在夜里冲到关卡重重的大街上拦出租，怀揣着一盒盒热腾腾的炒饭、宫保鸡丁和春卷。
（为什么在国外开的餐馆来来去去就这老三样，外加一个木须肉，烦…）

“Sometimes when I go out, I hear booms,” he said.
Alex讲：有时我出门能听到爆炸声。

The availability of Chinese takeout — which is often darn good — has become a hallmark of modern war zones.
中餐外卖的持续供应——味道还真TM好——成为现代战场的一大特色。
（华邮爆粗口了，在CD是要扣分滴…）

Baghdad’s Chinese restaurant at the al-Mansour Hotel kept the stove on during the worst of days, feeding the Chinese diplomats who operated out of the oft-attacked establishment. Another Chinese restaurant, in the Iraqi capital’s Green Zone, became part of Baghdad lore, with a stream of burly contractors timidly walking out of its mysterious backrooms.
即使在最艰难的日子里，巴格达al-Mansour酒店里的中餐馆也坚持不打烊，一直给处于险境中的中国外交官供餐。另一家开设在绿区的中餐馆俨然成为巴格达的传奇，肥头大耳的承包商从神秘包厢里鬼鬼祟祟地鱼贯而出。
（大风湖和霜大在33、40、42楼解毒，包厢里偷偷卖酒，特此鸣谢。另外，华邮记者八卦且没有链接，版主过来扣分。）

In Kabul, Golden Key Seafood Restaurant is a favorite Chinese joint among expats in landlocked Afghanistan, and one of the establishments that meets the security requirements that make them accessible to employees of certain non-governmental organizations.
在阿富汗喀布尔，金钥匙海鲜馆是这个内陆国家老外圈子中的最佳去处，由于它符合安保要求，某些非政府组织雇员皆可前往。
（说的是不是黑水之类的安保公司，高手再次解毒，这个记者不混超大亏了，黑话这么多）

While many expat-run businesses board up when war breaks out, Chinese entrepreneurs have come to see them as lands of opportunity.
当战争爆发、外企纷纷关门逃命之时，中国商人们则将之视为发财良机。

“They have their own way of managing and dealing with the challenges,” said Wang Tuguo, a Chinese journalist on assignment in Tripoli who has patronized al-Maida and Golden Key. “If you’re the only one, it’s big business.”
TG派驻黎波里王记者讲：中国商人应对挑战各有神通，如果在当地是独此一家、别无分号，那就发大了。
王记也曾光临过戴家店和金钥匙。

His verdict on the Dais’ southern Chinese cuisine: “Delicious,” he said. “Better than some restaurants in China.”
他对戴家菜的评价是：美味，比一些国内的馆子还好。

The Dais moved to Tripoli in 2004 from their native Zhejiang province on China’s eastern coast with a dream of opening a clothing store.
戴家2004年从浙江省搬来黎波里，原先打算开一家服装店。

Dai Sonxian soon discovered that Libyan women were far larger than the women she dressed in China. So she decided the family would instead profit by feeding them.
戴母很快发现利比亚妇女比江南女子肥硕得多，戴母觉得喂养她们要比给她们做衣服有钱途。

The family opened a small restaurant that soon became a sensation, she said. Because Muslims are not supposed to eat pork — a staple of Chinese cuisine — they offered a wide selection of lamb, chicken, fish and tofu dishes.
戴家最先开的小饭店一炮而红，由于MSL不吃猪肉，戴家选用羊、鸡、鱼、豆腐等原料。

They use Chinese ingredients that are shipped in bulk twice a year.
他们每年两次从国内采购大宗食材。

The restaurant once served Gaddafi’s son Saif al-Islam, she said proudly. As al-Maida’s reputation grew, the original restaurant became too small.
卡大佐的儿子也曾光顾，戴母对此十分自豪。
声名渐长，原先的店面日显得局促。

“There were not enough places for people to sit,” the 55-year-old said, speaking in Mandarin.
戴母用普通话讲，顾客连坐的地方都没有。

In January, the Dais moved the restaurant to a large two-story house that faces the Mediterranean. The ground floor has ornate ceilings with Islamic calligraphy and is decorated with red lanterns. The Dais live in the upstairs bedrooms.
一月份，戴家店搬入一个两层楼的海景大屋。一楼华丽的天花板饰有古兰文字并挂有红灯笼。戴家则住在二楼。

When Libyans rose up against Gaddafi in February, Dai Sonxian figured that the upheaval would end within weeks.
二月份，当利比亚P民谋反时，戴母想乱局最多持续几个礼拜。

“In Egypt, everything was over in a month or two,” she said. “I never thought Libyans would be fighting for so long.”
＂埃及一两个月就完事，哪曾想利比亚要打这么久。＂

Business is abysmal now, she said. The other three Chinese restaurants in the city closed this spring after their owners went home.
戴母家叹目前生意一落千丈。城里其它三家中餐馆都已经关门，店主各回各家各喊各妈。

“We are a little scared,” she said. “We know that at any time, the bombs can come crashing down — bang, bang, bang.”
戴母讲：＂我们是有点怕，炸弹随时会从天而降，轰轰轰。＂

But Dai Sonxian said she couldn’t stomach the thought of giving up on the family’s investment.
“I would lose everything,” she said. “So I’m gritting my teeth and sticking it out.”
但戴母讲她不能容忍戴家的投资付诸东流，＂俺咬咬牙也要坚持下去。＂
￥￥￥


邮报链接：http://www.washingtonpost.com/wo ... _story.html?hpid=z4

TRIPOLI, Libya — Even with bombs raining down on Tripoli and gunfire crackling throughout the night, every time the phone rings at the al-Maida Chinese restaurant, the Dai family springs into action.
利比亚黎波里——每当al-Maida中餐馆的电话铃响起，戴家便动如脱兔，哪管外面枪林弹雨。

The thousands-strong Chinese labor force that helped make the family one of the most successful restaurateurs in this battered capital left the country soon after an uprising plunged Libya into chaos in February.
自二月份利比亚陷入战乱以来，曾经为黎波里这家最火饭馆捧场的数千名中国劳工相继离开。

Gone, too, are most of the foreign diplomats who kept the eatery on speed dial.
同时撤离的还有众多将饭馆号码存在手机里的各国外交官。

But having invested hundreds of thousands of dollars in a new seaside location for the restaurant a month before the crisis began, the Dais are not yet willing to become casualties of Libya’s civil war.
但对于在战前一个月刚刚投资几十万美元在海边开设新店的戴家来讲，他们还不想成为战争的牺牲品。

“It would be such a loss of our money and a big waste,” Dai Sonxian, the family matriarch and restaurant manager, said on a recent evening, standing by the register near a framed photo of a smiling Moammar Gaddafi.
戴家掌门戴母最近说道：（如何我们也逃避兵祸的话）就太糟蹋钱了。她值守在收银台前，墙上还挂有卡大佐微笑的照片。

So her 21-year-old son Alex, the delivery guy, often darts out at night to hail a cab in this checkpoint-choked city, carrying containers of steaming fried rice, cashew chicken and spring rolls.
戴母21岁的儿子、送外卖的Alex，经常得在夜里冲到关卡重重的大街上拦出租，怀揣着一盒盒热腾腾的炒饭、宫保鸡丁和春卷。
（为什么在国外开的餐馆来来去去就这老三样，外加一个木须肉，烦…）

“Sometimes when I go out, I hear booms,” he said.
Alex讲：有时我出门能听到爆炸声。

The availability of Chinese takeout — which is often darn good — has become a hallmark of modern war zones.
中餐外卖的持续供应——味道还真TM好——成为现代战场的一大特色。
（华邮爆粗口了，在CD是要扣分滴…）

Baghdad’s Chinese restaurant at the al-Mansour Hotel kept the stove on during the worst of days, feeding the Chinese diplomats who operated out of the oft-attacked establishment. Another Chinese restaurant, in the Iraqi capital’s Green Zone, became part of Baghdad lore, with a stream of burly contractors timidly walking out of its mysterious backrooms.
即使在最艰难的日子里，巴格达al-Mansour酒店里的中餐馆也坚持不打烊，一直给处于险境中的中国外交官供餐。另一家开设在绿区的中餐馆俨然成为巴格达的传奇，肥头大耳的承包商从神秘包厢里鬼鬼祟祟地鱼贯而出。
（大风湖和霜大在33、40、42楼解毒，包厢里偷偷卖酒，特此鸣谢。另外，华邮记者八卦且没有链接，版主过来扣分。）

In Kabul, Golden Key Seafood Restaurant is a favorite Chinese joint among expats in landlocked Afghanistan, and one of the establishments that meets the security requirements that make them accessible to employees of certain non-governmental organizations.
在阿富汗喀布尔，金钥匙海鲜馆是这个内陆国家老外圈子中的最佳去处，由于它符合安保要求，某些非政府组织雇员皆可前往。
（说的是不是黑水之类的安保公司，高手再次解毒，这个记者不混超大亏了，黑话这么多）

While many expat-run businesses board up when war breaks out, Chinese entrepreneurs have come to see them as lands of opportunity.
当战争爆发、外企纷纷关门逃命之时，中国商人们则将之视为发财良机。

“They have their own way of managing and dealing with the challenges,” said Wang Tuguo, a Chinese journalist on assignment in Tripoli who has patronized al-Maida and Golden Key. “If you’re the only one, it’s big business.”
TG派驻黎波里王记者讲：中国商人应对挑战各有神通，如果在当地是独此一家、别无分号，那就发大了。
王记也曾光临过戴家店和金钥匙。

His verdict on the Dais’ southern Chinese cuisine: “Delicious,” he said. “Better than some restaurants in China.”
他对戴家菜的评价是：美味，比一些国内的馆子还好。

The Dais moved to Tripoli in 2004 from their native Zhejiang province on China’s eastern coast with a dream of opening a clothing store.
戴家2004年从浙江省搬来黎波里，原先打算开一家服装店。

Dai Sonxian soon discovered that Libyan women were far larger than the women she dressed in China. So she decided the family would instead profit by feeding them.
戴母很快发现利比亚妇女比江南女子肥硕得多，戴母觉得喂养她们要比给她们做衣服有钱途。

The family opened a small restaurant that soon became a sensation, she said. Because Muslims are not supposed to eat pork — a staple of Chinese cuisine — they offered a wide selection of lamb, chicken, fish and tofu dishes.
戴家最先开的小饭店一炮而红，由于MSL不吃猪肉，戴家选用羊、鸡、鱼、豆腐等原料。

They use Chinese ingredients that are shipped in bulk twice a year.
他们每年两次从国内采购大宗食材。

The restaurant once served Gaddafi’s son Saif al-Islam, she said proudly. As al-Maida’s reputation grew, the original restaurant became too small.
卡大佐的儿子也曾光顾，戴母对此十分自豪。
声名渐长，原先的店面日显得局促。

“There were not enough places for people to sit,” the 55-year-old said, speaking in Mandarin.
戴母用普通话讲，顾客连坐的地方都没有。

In January, the Dais moved the restaurant to a large two-story house that faces the Mediterranean. The ground floor has ornate ceilings with Islamic calligraphy and is decorated with red lanterns. The Dais live in the upstairs bedrooms.
一月份，戴家店搬入一个两层楼的海景大屋。一楼华丽的天花板饰有古兰文字并挂有红灯笼。戴家则住在二楼。

When Libyans rose up against Gaddafi in February, Dai Sonxian figured that the upheaval would end within weeks.
二月份，当利比亚P民谋反时，戴母想乱局最多持续几个礼拜。

“In Egypt, everything was over in a month or two,” she said. “I never thought Libyans would be fighting for so long.”
＂埃及一两个月就完事，哪曾想利比亚要打这么久。＂

Business is abysmal now, she said. The other three Chinese restaurants in the city closed this spring after their owners went home.
戴母家叹目前生意一落千丈。城里其它三家中餐馆都已经关门，店主各回各家各喊各妈。

“We are a little scared,” she said. “We know that at any time, the bombs can come crashing down — bang, bang, bang.”
戴母讲：＂我们是有点怕，炸弹随时会从天而降，轰轰轰。＂

But Dai Sonxian said she couldn’t stomach the thought of giving up on the family’s investment.
“I would lose everything,” she said. “So I’m gritting my teeth and sticking it out.”
但戴母讲她不能容忍戴家的投资付诸东流，＂俺咬咬牙也要坚持下去。＂
￥￥￥